Perma-Guard
Products Application Instructions
NOTE: These Application Instructions are for our D-20
Insecticide Products---the Fossil Shell Flour (food grade) will work also.
The only difference is that the D-20 Insecticide will be a faster knock down but the end result of using either is the same.
Ants
*Dry Powder: Stir the mound with a rake or other tool, agitating the ants. Apply Perma-Guard Household Insecticide dust liberally on the immediate area, contacting as many ants as possible. Repeat if needed for final results.
* Wet Application: Use one-half scup of Perma-Guard Household Insecticide with one tablespoon of a mild detergent per gallon of water. Saturate the mound or bed with the entire gallon of mixture. Repeat if necessary.
Bedbugs
Will not harm children, pets, or carpet. Apply dry or wet. Kills naturally, mechanically. Bedbugs can not develop an immunity. One treatment provides a residual effect which will continue to kill as eggs hatch and will last for months.
Application: When applying D-20, it is important to apply as a light dust or a "cloud". Do not shoot a stream of the powder. A very light dust cloud that is allowed to "settle" on the area of treatment is most effective. This can be achieved perfectly with the 5 oz. puffer bottle,
any dry insecticide applicator, or even an inexpensive turkey baster or the Pest Pistol.
To use a turkey baster, pull off the bulbous top and fill partially with D-20. Then, replace the bulb, point at the area to treat, making sure that the bulb is lower than the tube. Give several light taps or squeeze bulb quickly until the desired "dust cloud" is achieved.
Treat the mattress, box spring, under the bed, around the floor boards, closet floors, and curtains that touch the floor. For extra protection, be sure to apply around all the legs or headboard and footboard where they meet the floor. Since bedbugs can not jump or fly, this will serve as a border to prevent any bugs from gaining access to the bed. Pay particular attention to the edges above and below the piping or seams or under mattress tufts, buttons or handles.
Separate the mattress and box spring and dust areas in between as necessary. Pillow-top mattresses require special attention. Be sure to treat the bunched, stapled areas on the corners of the box spring mesh since there may be gaps where the bedbugs may hide.
Bed linens, once laundered, should also be dusted with D-20. Also launder draperies hanging near the bed, if necessary. Laundered items should be stored away from the bedbug infested area and/or sealed in securely tied heavy duty plastic bags to keeps insects out. It is
probably wise to keep the laundered items stored in another area for at least a few days.
Once the D-20 dust settles, you can work it into the carpet with your foot. You should allow the dust to remain a few days. The residual insecticide will continue to kill bugs and provide a barrier against
bugs entering the bed area. D-20 between mattresses, under the bed, and in areas out of direct sunlight will remain effective for months. For wallpaper or molding, you may wish to first moisten the area with a damp sponge before dusting with D-20.
Treat night tables and dressers by emptying them and then removing the drawers. Treat in the corners of each drawer both inside and then on the bottom corners of each drawer. Then, tip furniture on its side to check along the bottom and around casters since bedbugs may hide here as well. Don't forget to spray the back of the furniture as well.
Check behind any objects hanging on the wall such as behind picture frames or clocks. You may wish to open up wall outlet covers and switch covers and inspect to e sure that bedbugs have not taken up residence in those areas.
All moldings in the room including those that are mounted high and low must be treated. Wall to wall carpeting should be pulled away to expose the wooden mounting strip. pray on both sides of the mounting strips and check the carpet backing. Treat as needed. Don't overlook openings on the ceiling where lighting fixtures are attached since bedbugs may come down from other infested rooms in apartment buildings.
In severe cases where the population of bedbugs is high, treatment of adjacent rooms may be necessary. Closets in the bedroom may require treatment and the contents will need to be washed and dried as needed.
In apartment buildings, t may be helpful to seal any cracks or crevices around floorboards and moldings to prevent insects from migrating to or coming in from other apartments.
We have found that most people want Fast Delivery, and an applicator that will broadcast the correct amount of formula. Our 5 oz. "puffer bottle" dispenses a puff of powder that is the ideal amount of product. Once the "cloud" settles, you are protected. Our Pest Pistol also work good for this.
Carpet Beetles
Thoroughly dust along baseboards, carpet edges, under furniture, carpet, and rugs, and in closets and shelving.
Crickets, Scorpions, and Box Elder Bugs
Lightly dust areas around windows, doors and other places where pests may enter.
Fire Ants
Fire Ants are easier to kill than almost any other insect other than Mosquitoes. Remember the basic premise: GET THE PRODUCT ON THE BUG AND HE DIES!
In a short period of time, any home owner can rid his property of Fire Ants, with no danger to his children, pets, or to the environment.
This is not forever, as your property is surrounded by property containing Fire Ants, and they will re-infest, regardless of what insecticide you use. But you can keep them under control. Of course, if your neighbor uses the same process, it takes the Fire Ants further from you. The most wonderful thing is if a whole block or a whole community should do it together. The larger the area participating the more perfect the results would be.
You can take a given area and broadcast D-20 across the area and kill every ant on top of the ground. The trouble is, with all those queens, down below, laying about 20,000 eggs a day, the solution has a short life.
YOU MUST KILL THE QUEEN!
There are three ways to work this:
*Agitate the nest and spread D-20 over the area:
Using a stick agitate the nest. Ants will boil out ready to fight - be careful! Make a circle around the hole about a foot in diameter. Apply 1/4 cup of product over the circle area. Within five minutes, every ant on top of the ground will be curled into a tight ball and is either dead or soon will be.
This does not mean you got the queen. You may have, but do not count on it. Watch the hole for a few days. If more ants appear, it means more have hatched. Repeat the process until no more ants appear. This method gives you about a 50% chance to get the queen.
*Pour the liquid formula down the hole: This is the same process as using the liquid in the single hole for big ant treatment. Sometimes you cannot pour water directly into the hole. It might be better to level the entrance area with a hoe then wait a few hours and let them clean out the hole for you. Build a dirt funnel and, using 4 tablespoons of product per gallon of water plus 1 tablespoon of mild detergent, shake the container to make sure the product is in suspension, then slowly pour the liquid into the hole until it fills up.
Another reason for allowing time for the ants to clean out the holes, is that when ants become aware of danger they may even seal the chambers containing the eggs and the queen. After the danger is over (they think), then they settle down and resume normal activities. That is the time to hit them with the Doomsday Package.
*With a probe, inject the liquid solution down the hole: Fire Ants react quickly to danger. While some are at the top of the nest fighting possible invaders, others within the nest are trying to protect the queen and her eggs. They have been known to seal off those chambers in just a few minutes.
With a probe attached to a garden hose, or to a pressure tank, poke around the hole until you find the right place, then push all the way down and squeeze the trigger and fill that lower part of the nest with the Perma-Guard solution under pressure and catch them unprepared.
Push the probe up and down so that you are covering all parts of the nest, from top to bottom. This makes it virtually impossible for any of the ants to escape.
Some garden stores have these probes. The one you want has a suction tube on the side. Fill the tank with 4 tablespoons of product and 1 tablespoon of mild detergent in a gallon of water. Put the suction hose into the gallon of liquid, and when you insert the probe into the nest and turn on the water pressure, the insecticide solution is siphoned out and injected into the nest. It is virtually impossible for a single ant to escape.
When this solution is injected into the nest this way, the entire surface of the chamber and tunnels are coated with the Diatomaceous Earth Pyrethrum mixture. It is sealed in the nest, and since air or sunlight cannot get to it, the powerful killing power is extended for a very long time, making it impossible for any other colony to move in and take over.
Any person can take control of their own property at a very low cost, with no danger to themselves, children, pets, or the environment. Danger exists only for the ants.
Fleas
* Animal Application: Apply Perma-Guard Household Insecticide liberally to all parts of animal, close to skin.
* Rugs: Make a thin coating on the rug. Rake (not sweep) nap back and forth, causing dust to enter the rug. Leave overnight. When cleaning, do not make a special effort to remove the dust in the rug. It will kill live fleas, repel others, and will deodorize the carpet.
Flies
Lightly coat window sills so flies lighting will contact the dust. If the outside walls of the house, shrubbery, outbuildings (such as barns, stables, kennels or corrals) are dusted, flies are greatly reduced. Repeat if needed. Thoroughly dust areas where flies frequent (walls, straw bedding, livestock pens). It also can be applied to livestock coat as an insect repellent/contact insecticide.
Outside Areas: Gardens & Lawns
Apply 8 to 16 oz. of dust per 1000 sq. ft. of the yard. Two or three applications per year should do the job. This can be done as dry dust or as wettable powder, using suitable equipment
Indoor and Outdoor Application:
Sprinkle a light layer of DE in areas where pests frequent, including under stoves, cabinets, sinks, garbage cans, window and door frames and sills, entrance ways, sewer pipes and drains, and in cracks and crevices. Repeat treatment as needed.
*For Carpet Beetles: Thoroughly dust along baseboards, carpet edges, under furniture, carpet, and rugs, and in closets and shelving.
*For Bedbugs : Take apart bed and dust joints and channels. Dust any hollow tubing and the interior framework as well as the mattress and all cracks in the room.
*For Fleas: Thoroughly dust carpets and pet's bedding and sleeping areas, as well as cracks and baseboards. It also can be rubbed into your pet's fur.
*For Flies: Thoroughly dust areas where flies frequent (walls, straw bedding, livestock pens). It also can be applied to livestock coat as an insect repellent/contact insecticide. Perma-Guard Household product is licensed to be used in for pest control and around the home, yard, animal housing, etc. It can be applied as a dry dust, or mixed with water at the rate of 2 oz. per quart and sprayed as a liquid.
Plants and Gardens:
For control of aphids, whitefly, beetles, loopers, mites, leaf hoppers, adult flea beetles, sawfly, coddling moth, twig borer, thrips, mites, cockroach, slugs, snails, earwigs, silverfish, and ants. Can be used for bedbugs, cabbage root flies, carrot root flies, fleas, pillbugs, ticks and is helpful in dealing with fungus gnats. For use in the greenhouse or outdoors on fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains and grass--up to and including day of harvest.
Dry Application:
The goal is to get coverage over the entire plant, especially under the leaves. For young plants, as little as two pounds per acre may be adequate. For larger plants, five lb/acre is probably sufficient. With extra growth, it might be necessary to increase the amount. An examination of the leaves will tell if the leaf bottom is covered.
Applicator: A good dust applicator is essential, and should be equipped with electronic nozzles, which put a negative charge on the dust. The plant being positive, attracts the dust making for a better coverage even ion leaf bottom.
Wet Application:
The same rates per acre apply when using as a water and powder mixture. Adding water is merely a means of using existing spray equipment and can be used by making a thin slurry of DE and water. This method can you give precise coverage and when it dries the DE goes to work. A slurry can also be used as a "paint" on tree trunks to discourage insects and to give sunscald protection to the bark. A slurry paint may also be useful in deterring borers from laying eggs on bark.
Mixing Instructions:
For Fruit Trees:
We use 8 oz per Gallon or 2 1/2 lbs per Acre and find it to be very effective.
Minimum: 1 lb. to 2 gals. water
Maximum: 1 lb. to 25 gals. water
The purpose is to ge
t a solution that will flow easily through the nozzle and still put the recommended amount of product per acre. Again, it is essential to get coverage on the underside of the leaf.
Garden and Yard Plants:
The same specifications apply. Get coverage on top and bottom of leaf. Apply either wet or dry.
Applicators: A variety of units are available, from small hand held units, to backpacks. Some are capable of applying either wet or dry product.
Note: We carry Pest Pistols and Spritzer tube dusters which work well.
Distributed by: Shadow Ridge
77 Oxford Rd, Peachland, NC 28133
(704) 272-7110
www.shadowridgedonkeys.com corlowski@alltel.net